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The area here called "Angkor region" is a large area around the town of Siem Reap, some 290 km north of Phnom Penh. The cities of Angkor were the center of a large Khmer empire from the 9th to the 13th century. A succession of rulers built large temple complexes in different styles to honour themselvers and the gods of their various beliefs. In the earlier period the architecture reflected Hindu style, in later times the Khmer kings religion changed to an adapted form of Mahayana Buddhism.
A long line of rulers built bigger and bigger temples and cities until the huge cost weakened their empire too much. After a long series of wars the Thai armies overran Angkor in 1431, forcing the king and his court to flee to the southeast to an area near Phnom Penh. After Angkors defeat its history becomes muddy until the Frenchman Henri Mouhot 'discovered' the temples around 1860. This is not historically accurate, there are reports about the temples at Angkor by Portuguese and Spanish missionaries dating back to the 16th and 17th century. And (of course) Dutch traders visited around 1640. Many people reported in the 19th century about the city and temples of Angkor, but for mysterious reasons their reports went unnoticed.
When Mouhot arrived the jungle had reclaimed most of the terrain and little was left of the elaborate structure of reservoirs and canals, and most temples were in ruins. The publication in 1864 of an account of Mouhot's travels attracted a lot of attention of English and French archaelogists. In the beginning of this century the French begain the almost impossible task of restoring the temples to part of their former glory. The work was halted during various wars in this century but continues to this day under the guidance of the Angkor Conservation Society. The restoration is funded by many countries through the UN, European Economic Community and a long list of other organisations. Some temples were declared World Monuments. Preserving the temples has become increasingly difficult as vandalism and looting are on the rise. Lots of statues are brutally beheaded and frescos damaged. The parts are smuggled mainly to Thailand to be sold on the international antiques market.
In the present some 100 temples and 5000 statues remain, scattered over the area. Tourists will need at least a few days to visit the main attractions like the Ankor Wat, Ta Prohm and Bayon temples. One of the more relaxed ways to visit is to rent a small motorcycle with driver for about US$ 6-7 a day. You will see and hear a lot more than from a car, and its only a 15 minute drive from the centre of Siem Reap to the main temples.
A guidebook comes also handy. A collection of maps and books is available at the tourist stalls in front of Angkor Wat and in tourist shops in town near the Grand Hotel d'Angkor.
In front of Angkor Wat are also a few small restaurants where you can have lunch.
Entrance to the temples is allowed only with a valid ticket. Prices seem to vary, but in 1995-1997 it was something like US$ 20 a day, so a three-day pass for US$ 40 is a good idea. Passes for one week are also available. Tickets are purchased at the main checkpoint half a mile south of Angkor Wat. Some drivers pass this point if it is not occupied early in the morning, which can get you into trouble later. I was asked to show my ticket three times in three days as the holes in the pass above testify. Don't pay any 'special entrance fees', and remember that people allowed to ask for your ticket will have some identification to prove it.
Stay on the path! The area has officially been cleared of mines, but lots of them were laid a few years ago also to prevent looting. No tourist have been injured yet (as far as I know, that is) but better safe than sorry.
Visiting Banteay Srei seems possible since halfway 1997,.but I haven't been able to visit there yet. The following pages present an overview of the main temples. It is by no means complete, there is much more to see than what is shown on these pages. Enjoy!